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Melt the butter in a large pan and sweat the onion, celery, leek, celeriac and garlic, if using, until soft but not brown - about 10 to 15 minutes.
Now add the stock and pile in the nettles, pushing them down to submerge.
Bring to the boil and simmer, partially covered, for five to 10 minutes until the nettles are tender. Season with salt and pepper, and with nutmeg, if you wish.
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Check the seasoning, then serve, garnishing each bowl with a swirl of cream and a generous sprinkle of chopped wild garlic leaves. Wild garlic makes a very good skordalia, the garlicky Greek dip.
Serve it with warm pitta bread, roast chicken or grilled fish. Boil the potatoes and mash until very smooth.
Stir in the wild garlic, lemon juice and vinegar. Trickle in the olive oil, beating as you go, until you have a very smooth, silky paste. Season with a little salt and serve.
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